Eleven Madison Park Adds Meat Back — What It Means for the Future of Vegan Fine Dining

Eleven Madison Park Adds Meat Back 

Big news just dropped in the NYC dining world: Eleven Madison Park (EMP), the Michelin-starred fine dining destination that went fully vegan in 2021, is adding meat back to its menu.

EMP August 2021, shortly after nixing meat from the menu

Starting October 14, diners will choose between a plant-forward tasting menu or one featuring an animal protein like the restaurant’s iconic honey-lavender duck. Both still priced at $365 per person.

Why EMP’s Return to Meat Doesn’t Spell Doom for Plant-Based Fine Dining

One of the plant-based courses on the seasonal menu, 2021

The decision has stirred controversy, especially within the vegan community. Some see the move as a betrayal, arguing the plant-based shift was nothing more than a branding play, a way to generate buzz and capitalize on a trending moment. Now, with meat returning, they say it validates that criticism. 

And, I totally get that criticism. As well as the sting.

But the truth is more layered.

Why This Shift Isn’t Just About Taste, It’s About Restaurant Survival

“Eating together is the essence of who we are, and I’ve learned that to truly champion plant-based cooking, I need to create an environment where everyone feels welcome around the table,” EMP’s Chef Daniel Humm said in an Instagram statement posted by Eleven Madison Park.

Is that true? Probably. Is it also PR spin? Absolutely.

The real meat and potatoes (apologies, I couldn’t help myself) came when he addressed the issues behind his thoughts that switching to plant-based in 2021 unintentionally alienated diners. Which when unpacked further, he credited to declines in corporate bookings, group reservations and wine sales.

Wine pairings start at $125 per guest at EMP

Perhaps the most important of all of these are the wine sales, which play a major part in any restaurant’s revenue since the profit margin is exponentially larger than food. 

According to Sommelier Business, a 200 – 300 percent markup on a bottle of wine  over its retail price in fine dining establishments is the industry standard. In some cases, the markups can go as high as a whopping 400 percent for more expensive or specialty wines. So, when the wine sales didn’t produce, it greatly impacted the restaurant’s financial viability.

All-in-all, his decision to remove meat from the menu resulted in financial consequences. According to Restaurant365, full-service restaurants typically operate on three to five percent profit margins, even in good times. Add in ~4 percent dining inflation, supply chain pressures, and shifts in consumer spending, and the economics quickly become unsustainable. (Restaurant365)

EMP isn’t the only restaurant to face this reality.

 

 

 

 

 

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The popular Sage Vegan Bistro in L.A. made headlines after reintroducing meat to its menu. It sparked outrage from longtime customers, and despite its hail mary to stay open with the addition of meat, ended up closing its doors shortly thereafter. It’s legacy tarnished.

Vegetarian restaurant, Heirloom in Vancouver also added meat. And, in Las Vegas, a mushroom-focused vegan restaurant added bison. The results were similar to Sage, and all eventually closed despite banking on meat to get them where they needed to be.

The challenges for plant-based dining are similar to omni restaurants — tight margins and operational costs. Then, there’s also the added hurdle of a limited audience perception and overcoming stereotypes and stigmas associated with vegan food. 

Understanding Vegan Backlash

The outrage from the vegan community is valid.

When a fine dining institution like EMP goes all-in on plant-based, it’s more than a menu shift, it’s a cultural signal. I remember how excited I was when the news broke in 2021 about Humm’s plant-based pivot and the shockwaves it sent through the restaurant world. Suddenly, all eyes were on his experiment, which netted him recognition from Michelin, becoming the only three-star Michelin restaurant in the US that was plant-based.

There was hope: could this be the start of a plant-based movement in the fine dining world?

Fast-forward four years, and sadly, the answer is a flat no.

Reversing back to animals on the menu feels like a step backward, especially for people who viewed the move as a values-driven statement. Add to that the unchanged $365 price tag, and it’s understandable why some feel duped.

But here’s the nuance: EMP isn’t ditching plant-based dining. They’re now offering two parallel menus—one vegan, one omni. Am I happy about it? No. 

However (sorry, vegans, it’s got to be said), although it is imperfect and disappointing, Humm still pledging to be plant-forward keeps the plant-based conversation going in the fine dining world. If this model succeeds at EMP, perhaps there are more opportunities within that culinary landscape to integrate more plant-forward menus across the board.

What Restaurants Can Learn From This

This moment is a case study in why restaurants, especially vegan or plant-forward ones, need strategic storytelling and smart operations to survive and thrive. 

 

 

 

 

 

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Of course, I have thoughts as to what restaurants can do to stay afloat.

1. Lead with Descriptions, Not Labels

The word “vegan” still carries stigma. Menu descriptions should highlight ingredients and culinary technique, not ideology. “Smoked tomato consommé with house-made cashew butter” is far more enticing than “vegan soup.” Virtue signaling is out. Inclusivity and simply mentioning allergens are in.

2. Create Flexibility, Not Rigidity

EMP’s dual-menu approach may not be ideal for purists, but it broadens the guest base and increases resilience. More inclusive menus can still center plant-forward creativity and sustainability. It’s steps in the right direction for plant-based dining and the vegan movement. Nothing happens over night, and shifting dining habits is a big mountain to climb.

3. Market the Experience, Not Just the Food

In today’s economy, diners, especially those paying $500 – plus, want an unforgettable, experiential experience. That includes design, service, ambiance, exclusivity, and emotional connection. EMP’s famed “hospitality solutions” (like giving guests a bottle of cognac at the end of the meal) are part of what created their allure. What hurt them was the fact that when they switched over to plant-based, the pricing remained the same, despite the idea that with the menu change, the price point should have been less. 

4. Make Sustainability Aspirational

Don’t just market vegan food as the “better choice”—make it the cooler, more exclusive, and more innovative one. Sustainability should feel sexy, not sacrificial. It’s important to make sure that customers don’t feel like they are missing out on anything when dining plant-based. They should leave satisfied, not thinking they will need to eat more in a couple of hours. Or that there was something missing from the meal.

What This Means for Vegan Dining’s Future

Yes, Eleven Madison Park’s pivot is big. But it’s not a sign that plant-based dining is dead. Instead, it’s a wake-up call: ethics alone won’t keep the lights on. To succeed, vegan and plant-forward restaurants need:

• Incredible food

• Dynamic, inclusive storytelling and marketing

• High-touch hospitality

• Business models that adapt to market conditions

EMP isn’t abandoning the plant-based world. They’re navigating it more strategically. And if anything, this moment proves that vegan fine dining is evolving, not ending.

Are you a restaurant that needs guidance in storytelling and branding? Connect with me today.